Saturday, April 26, 2014

Project: Hanami in Japan with a budget of P45,000

I've already been to Japan a few times before but this is the first time during spring so I could witness sakura (cherry blossoms) in full bloom. I thought what better place to do hanami (flower viewing) but in Kansai. And so I embarked on my solo journey through Osaka, Nara and Kyoto.

THE PREPARATIONS

As usual, I start with booking my flight. As a budget traveler, I'm a suki (loyal customer) of budget airlines. I was so psyched when Cebu Pacific came out with flights to Japan, to Kansai, Narita and Nagoya. Since a trip to Japan would not be complete for me without visiting my friends in Chiba, I decided to book a multi-way ticket: Manila to Osaka then Tokyo via Narita to Manila. This way I could do my whole journey in Kansai then drop by my friend's place in Chiba on the way home.

The ticket cost me P12,050.67 with one of the flights at promo fare, then only 15kgs baggage allowance on my Tokyo - Manila flight. I booked this January 30, about 2 months prior the flight.

The second and my most favorite part of planning is building the itinerary. It's so easy now with all the blogs and sites devoted to travel. I subscribe to Trip Advisor to deliberate on the top places to go to since I usually only have a few days in each area. As a budget traveler of course, I only stay in hostels so Hostel World and Booking.com are my go-to sites.

THE TRIP

I usually do web check-in so I went to NAIA Terminal 3 an hour before my flight. I went straight to the counter where I paid the P1,620 travel tax then proceeded to my check-in counter. Cebu Pacific had decided to consolidate all the international flights so the lines were long and people were in varied states of panic. My flight to Kansai and the flight to Nagoya were leaving in 45 minutes and the passengers in these flights were not yet all checked-in. About ten minutes later, they decided to prioritize us and I went to the front of the line, to the annoyance of the ones lined up before me. I passed through easily since I didn't have check-in luggage and only my backpack and a messenger bag in front. I paid the P550 terminal fee and went straight to the plane for boarding.


I arrived at Kansai International Airport on April 5, 2014 at 3:20 PM and bought the JR West Rail Pass for Y6,170, which was good for 4 days (counting April 5 as the first day). This lasted me till my trip to Kyoto. I got a map and hopped on the JR line to Tennoji station, transferred to the subway line to Tanimachi-9chome. I paid Y180 for the subway fare since this was not covered by the JR West Rail Pass. I found my hostel Tani9 Backpackers Osaka easily enough as it was only a few meters away from Exit 2 of the subway station.

It was already about 10 PM when I arrived at the hostel so I basically just slept in for the night. I got a bed in a 4-bed female dorm. It was clean but very small. Good thing I'm also a small person. My roommates were from Hong Kong, so we all fit into the room just fine. There was an effort for privacy with the curtain in each bed space.

I woke up the next day and took a shower. The hostel had the typical capsule-type in Japan, shared among the guests on the floor. It had shampoo and body wash and space to hang your clothes and stuff.
I bought breakfast and snacks at the nearby Lawson convenience store. All my favorite Japanese snacks that I've missed - inarizushi, Calpis, and melon bread, for a total of Y389.
I ate my breakfast at the common room of the hostel. I filled my flask with the free water from the kitchen and maximized the free wi-fi access.

The staff arrived at 9AM. I paid Y2,800 for my one-night stay and checked-out. They were fully-booked for April 6, which is why I had to transfer to a different hostel.

I rode the subway again to Tennoji station, then took the JR Line to Shin-Imamiya station which was near Hotel Mikado. This was definitely a more convenient place to stay at since I could use my rail pass to anywhere and not have to spend additional for the Y180 subway fare.

Hotel Mikado's reception area was very welcoming with stuffed toys to greet you, free Doraemon snacks on the table and a fully-stacked library of manga in the common area.



I paid Y2,200 for my single private room, which was such a good deal since it had a TV, small ref, hangers for your coat, and all the necessary amenities. They also gave towels and a robe, which I used later on at the hotel's onsen.



I started Day 1 in Osaka touring the Sumiyoshi-Taisha Shrine. I took the Hankai tram (at the the back of the JR Shin-Imamiya station East Exit) to Sumiyoshi-toriimae station. This was not covered by the west rail pass so I paid Y400 (Y200 one-way).









The entrance to Sumiyoshi Taisha is free. It's actually functional and not just a tourist attraction. I was fortunate enough to have witnessed a wedding.



I went back to Shin-Imamiya station and rode the JR line to Tennoji. From there I walked about 20 minutes to Shitennoji temple. It took a little bit of my Nihonggo skills to figure out the way as my map was not entirely accurate in terms of scale. I passed through the Tennoji Zoo and could see the Tsutenkaku Tower from afar. Though it was drizzling that day, I enjoyed my stroll along the sakura tree-lined park and even saw a puppet show happening by the side of the street.


The entrance into Shitennoji temple is marked by the Sai-Mon (West Gate) and lined with street stalls selling souvenirs and snacks.

The fee is Y300 and it is open from 8AM to 4PM.





Since it was a Sunday, I heard mass at the Cathedral of St. Mary of Tamatsukuri. So from Tennoji station, I rode the Osaka loop line to Morinomiya station and walked from there. The 2PM mass was celebrated in English and as I've observed in most churches around the world, the Filipinos participate actively as the readers and the choir.



The rain had stopped by the time the celebration ended so I decided to walk towards the Osaka Castle since it was just nearby. What greeted me when I neared the castle was the heartwarming sight of a Sunday picnic - families and groups of friends frolicking under the shade of sakura trees. It was breathtaking! I wish I lived there so I could do this every springtime, too!







The entrance to Osaka Castle is Y600. This gave access to five floors of the museum, with artifacts and records of the castle's history, and the observation deck showing a good view of Osaka city.

 



It is open from 9AM to 5PM. I'm so lucky I was able to go during spring, and exactly during sakura mankai (cherry blossoms in full bloom) so the castle looks absolutely splendid against a backdrop of pale pink flowers.


Because my goal was to experience hanami, what better place to view the blossoms but in Kema Sakuranomiya Park, which was a stroll away from Osaka Castle.


I sat down on one of the benches, sipping the warm milk tea I bought from a vendo machine (Y100) and just took in the beautiful view. This is how I spent the rest of the afternoon.




My grumbling stomach triggered me to get up and walk to a train station. I took the subway, paying Y180 to get to Shinsaibashi. From there I took in the sights of the bustling cosmopolitan area of Osaka, and walked towards Dotonbori.

 




I ate at this quaint place called Chuoken, where I ordered the gyoza set with Asahi beer for Y1,380.



After dinner, I walked around some more then looked for the nearest JR station, which happened to be Namba and took the train back to Shin-Imamiya to Hotel Mikado. I capped off the night with a bath at their onsen and some late night Japanese TV show in the comfort of my room.

Day 2 in Osaka was spent in Universal Studios. I checked out of Hotel Mikado and rode the JR line to Nishikujo station, where I left my backpack at the locker for Y300. I then hopped back on the train to Universal City station, which leads exactly to Universal Studios.



I was surprised to see that there were a lot of people in the theme park on a Monday. My all-day pass was Y6,980.

 Lunch was at Snoopy's Backlot Cafe - Teriyaki Burger Meal for Y1,190.
I roamed around the park, rode several rides like the Jurassic Park, Spiderman and Back to the Future. I must admit the Jurassic Park ride was my favorite. I even bought the souvenir photo for Y1,500.



Time passed so quickly, it was time to say goodbye to Osaka and proceed to my next destination. I rode the train back to Nishikujo, picked up my backpack, and rode the 4:27 PM Yamatoji Rapid Service to Nara.

What I thought would be a short walk to the hostel, actually took all of twenty minutes. I passed Sanjodori Street, the Five-Story Pagoda and the Sarusawa-Ike Pond.

Guesthouse Tamura is a house in Nara-machi (Old Nara Town) that was converted into a backpackers hostel. Most of the guests could actually speak Japanese, though the owner tried her best to converse in English. I paid Y2,500 for one night in the 3-bed Female Dorm.

After leaving my stuff in the guesthouse, I decided to grab dinner at a restaurant along Higashimuki Street near Sanjodori Street, which I passed earlier. I found this awesome katsu restaurant called Tonkatsu Ganko which had a small zen garden within the restaurant and the perfect solo table for me.


I ordered the mixed katsu set (chicken cheese, minced meat, and original tonkatsu), which was completely worth the Y1,026 I paid for it. I finished every single piece, plus the miso soup, salad and pickles to the last morsel!

I woke up the next day, pumped up and ready to tour Nara. I borrowed a bicycle from the guesthouse for Y500 and what a brilliant plan this was for I finished touring Nara in a matter of hours!

I passed through Nara Park going to Kasuga Taisha Shrine. Nara is known as a deer reserve. Deer just roamed around the park and practically everywhere in Nara. The inner shrine of Kasuga Taisha had a fee of Y500.












I went next to the Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine where I wrote a wish down on a card of dove for Y200. The belief is that the doves would fly the wishes to the heavens.

Right next to Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine were the Sangatsudo and Nigatsudo Halls. I trudged the stairs up one of them to get a bird's eye view of Nara.
  
 



There was a pathway from Nigatsudo Hall towards Todaiji Temple. All around sakura trees were abloom and I even witnessed a painter trying to capture the magnificent view.


The entrance to the Daibutsuden Hall (Great Buddha Hall) in Todaiji Temple was Y500.



It was a glorious day to be out, with the sun shining brightly and spring in full swing. I took a break from riding and just soaked up the atmosphere at the wide expanse of Isuien and Yoshikien Gardens. I even saw a pre-nup shoot ongoing. Perfect backdrop indeed!

A deer got cozy with my bicycle and my bag!


Tired from walking and riding, I decided to cool down with matcha ice cream for Y300. Yum!




After resting, I rode my bike to Kofukuji Temple. Entrance to the museum and halls were Y800 but I decided to just tour outside.
I then rode to Sanjodori Street to have lunch at Coco Curry House. I ordered the Katsu Curry with Cheese for Y885.

After that hearty meal, I rode to Naramachi Koshi-no-Ie where I got a glimpse of a traditional Japanese house for free.

 I then went to the Gangoji Temple, which had an entrance fee of Y400.

That was the end of my tour of Nara. I went back to the guesthouse to return the bicycle and retrieve my backpack and off I was to JR Nara Station for my trip to Kyoto. I boarded the 4:56 PM Miyakoji Rapid Service, which was still covered by my JR West Rail Pass.

From the JR Kyoto Station, I bought two all-day bus passes to get to the guesthouse and for my tour the next day, for a total of Y1,000 (Y500 each pass, unlimited bus rides valid for 1 day). I took Bus #206 to Omiya Gojo, where You En Me Guesthouse was located. It was already around 7PM by the time I got there so I wasn't able to maximize my bus pass when I decided not to go out anymore. The bed was just so inviting and I wanted to take a shower after my tiring day touring Nara.
My bed in the 3-bed female dorm cost Y3,800 for that night. It was on the ground floor right next to the common room, so I could hear the sounds of the people outside. The bed was comfortable enough though and I was probably tired so I dozed off easily. Good thing, too, because the next day touring Kyoto would be another tiring one.

I took Bus #206 to JR Kyoto Station and left my backpack at the lockers for Y300. Then I grabbed the 206 bus to Hakubutsukan-Sanjusangendo-mae stop. The entrance fee was Y600. No photography was allowed inside. It was overwhelming to see 1,0001 golden Buddhist statues. Registered as a National Treasure of Japan, this was definitely worth the trip.
I rode Bus #206 and got off Gojozaka stop. From there it was about a 15 minute walk uphill towards Kiyomizu-dera. The entrance fee was Y300. The main hall was overlooking Kyoto and it was a wondrous sight.






I walked downhill along Kiyomizu-michi, passing by stores selling souvenir and Japanese restaurants. I bought a sakura-flavored cream puff for Y300. Oishikatta!
Again, I rode Bus #206 to Gion. I wandered around the district till I found a restaurant to eat at.
I decided to try the Udon Noodles Museum in Japan, where I got their bestselling udon for Y1,120. I definitely tasted why it was the bestseller, and slurped my bowl dry.
I rode the #12 bus to Kinkakuji-mae stop. It was a 45-minute ride up a mountain. It is one of the most famous attractions in Kyoto so there was a line to purchase a ticket. The ticket costs Y400. Walking behind a throng of tourists, I was astonished as I saw the top of a golden structure looming into view.
I rode the #12 bus back down and got off Nijojo-mae stop. Another famous tourist spot, Nijo Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entrance fee was Y600, giving access to the interior of Ninomaru Palace, a National Treasure, as well as the gardens surrounding it. Photography was not allowed inside, and shoes are to be taken off at the entrance of Ninomaru Palace.

Some tourists really knew how to immerse themselves into the Kyoto culture, donning traditional Japanese kimonos. I was actually envious I wasn't able to do this due to lack of time.
I rode Bus #101 back to JR Kyoto Station and rode the JR Nara Line to Inari station. My JR West Rail Pass was expired by this time, so I bought tickets for a total of Y280 (Y140 one-way). Fushimi Inari Taisha is probably my most favorite site in Kyoto. I just could not believe how many torii gates there were winding up and down the mountain!
That ended my whirlwind trip around Kansai. I took the 5:16PM Shinkansen Nozomi bullet train to Tokyo station. This cost me Y13,080 but I got to Tokyo in less than 3 hours.


In Tokyo, I met up with my friends and traveled to Chiba to stay with other friends. I spent about Y12,188 for the remainder of the trip for train tickets, omiyage (souvenir), a bit of shopping, food and drinks to bring home, and some magazines to read during the flight.

THE SPEND

My whole 6-day solo trip to Japan costs less than P45,000 including airfare. I traveled from April 5 to 11, 2014.